Pinus sylvestris

Scots Pine

The most widely distributed pine on earth and the most forgiving wood in this catalogue to build with. Soft, knotty, and it ambers into something far better than it starts as.

Être informé du prochain arrivageEssence de référence. Aucun plateau en stock pour le moment.

Convient-il à votre projet ?

Idéal pour

Farmhouse tables
Painted and waxed furniture
Flooring
Panelling
Carcass and shelving work

Aucun plateau en Scots Pine dans la sélection actuelle

Essences similaires en stock

Aucun plateau en Scots Pine pour le moment. Ces essences conviennent aux mêmes projets et sont disponibles.

Soyez informé des arrivages en Scots Pine

Nous vous envoyons un e-mail lorsque de nouveaux plateaux en Scots Pine arrivent chez KORENA. Chaque plateau est unique, mieux vaut donc être prévenu rapidement.

Aspect du bois

Son aspect

Pale yellow to light reddish brown heartwood that darkens considerably with age and light, against a wide band of near white sapwood. The ring figure is pronounced and the knots are a defining feature rather than an incidental one, since Scots Pine is naturally knotty and much of its character in furniture comes from that. Older slow grown stock develops a deep amber colour that is the reason antique pine looks nothing like new pine.

Pale yellow to light reddish brown heartwood
Wide near white sapwood band
Darkens markedly with age and UV toward deep amber
Generally straight; moderate resin.

Travail du bois

Son travail en atelier

Easy with both hand and machine tools and it glues and finishes well, which together make it one of the most forgiving woods to build in. Resin is present but less troublesome than in larch or maritime pine. Knots are the real machining consideration: they are hard, often loose, and can tear or spit out under a planer. Around large knots, take light cuts and consider hand work.

Finition

Takes finish well and takes wax exceptionally, which is the traditional treatment and still the best one for the look most people want from pine. Pigment stains blotch on pine as they do on spruce, so use a conditioner or choose a dye. Resin around knots should be sealed with shellac before painting or it will bleed through the film. The natural ambering with age is substantial and generally considered the point.

Séchage

Dries fairly quickly and easily with a low tendency to distort, one of its practical virtues. Blue stain from fungus develops fast in warm damp conditions on freshly felled logs and unseasoned boards, so stock that has sat before processing may carry grey blue discolouration through the sapwood. It does not weaken the wood. Volumetric shrinkage is around 13.6 percent, on the higher side for this group.

De combien va-t-il bouger ?

Le bois gonfle et se rétracte en largeur selon que l’air devient plus humide ou plus sec. Estimez le mouvement saisonnier d’un plateau en Scots Pine avant de concevoir les fixations.

Largeur du plateau800 mm

Débit

Lieu d’utilisation

Mouvement saisonnier attendu

environ 9,5 mm

Fixez le plateau avec des taquets ou des équerres à trous oblongs, sans colle ni vis trop serrées.

Modèle de retrait linéaire : largeur × (retrait ÷ 28 % de point de saturation des fibres) × variation saisonnière d’humidité. Utilise un retrait tangentiel de 8,3 % pour le Scots Pine. Il s’agit d’une estimation de conception, pas d’une garantie.

Son prix

Sécurité et origine

Working with pine has been reported to cause allergic skin reactions and asthma-like symptoms in some people. Resin contact sensitises some individuals over time. Normal extraction, a P2 mask for extended sanding, and gloves when handling resinous stock are appropriate.

Lire le guide completNotes détaillées sur la figure, l’évolution de la couleur, le travail et la stabilité.

What Scots Pine actually is#

Pinus sylvestris has the largest natural range of any pine species anywhere, stretching from the west of Scotland and the Iberian mountains across the whole of Eurasia to the Pacific coast. It is sold under several names that confuse buyers comparing quotes: redwood in the British trade, deal in older usage, and simply pine almost everywhere. They are the same species.

Its ubiquity has the same effect on its reputation as spruce suffers from. This is the wood of construction studs and cheap furniture, and that association hides the fact that Scots Pine is one of the most pleasant woods to build in that exists, and that it ages into a colour no finish can imitate.

Reading a Scots Pine slab#

Fresh Scots Pine is pale, a light yellow heartwood against a wide near-white sapwood band. What you are actually buying is what that will become. The species ambers dramatically under light and time, moving to a deep honey brown over years and decades. Stripped antique pine holds a colour that new pine stained to match will never quite reach, because the change is oxidation and resin migration through the whole thickness rather than pigment on the surface.

Knots are the second thing to read, and on this species they are not a defect to be tolerated so much as the material's defining texture. Scots Pine is naturally knotty. The question is whether the knots on a given slab are sound and tight, or loose and ringed with checking. Sound knots are a feature. Loose knots will eventually fall out and need filling or plugging.

Questions des acheteurs

Questions fréquentes des acheteurs

Why does old pine furniture look so different from new pine?

Scots Pine ambers dramatically with age and light exposure. A freshly machined board is pale yellow; the same board after decades of daylight and wax is a deep honey brown. That colour is not a stain, it is oxidation and resin change through the wood, which is why stripped antique pine keeps its colour while new pine stained to match does not age the same way.

Is Scots Pine hard enough for flooring?

At 2,420 N Janka it is soft for a floor and will dent, which is precisely the look traditional pine flooring has. It has been used for floors across northern Europe for centuries on that understanding. If dents are unacceptable, oak or ash are the right answer; if a floor that records its use is wanted, pine does it honestly.

What causes the grey blue staining in the sapwood?

Blue stain fungus, which colonises freshly felled pine in warm damp conditions. It discolours the sapwood without weakening it structurally. Some makers avoid it and some feature it. It is a cosmetic grade issue, and any KORENA listing showing it will show it in the slab photography rather than describing it away.

Propriétés mécaniques

Données techniques

Valeurs de référence publiées. Lorsque les sources divergent, la plage est indiquée et la valeur courante sert aux échelles ci-dessus.

Retrait tangentiel
Densité (kg/m³)	550 kg/m³
Dureté Janka (N)	2,420 N
MOR : module de rupture (MPa)	83 MPa
MOE : module d’élasticité (GPa)	10.1 GPa
Retrait radial	5.2 %

Pinus sylvestris has the widest natural range of any pine on earth, running from Scotland and Iberia across Eurasia to the Pacific. European slab stock comes mostly from Scandinavia, the Baltics and Poland, where certified managed forestry is the norm and EUDR documentation is well established.

Not listed in the CITES Appendices and assessed by the IUCN as Least Concern. It is among the most abundant and best certified timbers in Europe, with mature FSC and PEFC supply chains through Scandinavia and the Baltics. Of all the species KORENA lists, this is one of the simplest to document for EUDR purposes.

Ring spacing separates slow-grown northern stock, which is denser, more stable and considerably more attractive, from fast-grown material with wide soft bands. Baltic and Scandinavian slabs from higher latitudes tend toward the former.

Blue stain shows as a grey-blue cast through the sapwood. It is a fungus that colonises freshly felled logs in warm damp conditions and it does not weaken the wood. Whether it is a flaw or a feature depends entirely on the piece.

This is the easiest wood in the catalogue to work. It cuts cleanly with hand and machine tools, it glues reliably, it takes fastenings well for a softwood, and it finishes without argument. For a first slab project, or for a maker working without a well equipped shop, it removes most of the ways a build can go wrong.

The knots are where care is needed. They are much harder than the surrounding wood, frequently contain resin, and can tear out or spit under a planer knife. Take light cuts approaching a large knot, and be prepared to finish that area by hand or with a scraper. A helical cutterhead makes a substantial difference on knotty stock.

Resin is present but far less troublesome than in larch or maritime pine. Blades will need occasional cleaning rather than constant attention.

For gluing, ordinary PVA at moderate clamping pressure is sufficient. Avoid crushing the fibres by over-clamping, which starves the joint.

Drying and movement#

Scots Pine dries quickly and easily with a low tendency to distort, which is another reason it dominates commodity production. Slab stock in thick sections still benefits from air drying to around 20 percent followed by a controlled kiln finish.

Volumetric shrinkage at roughly 13.6 percent is on the higher side for this group, with tangential movement at 8.3 percent against 5.2 percent radial. The ratio between the two is better than spruce or fir, which means flatsawn pine cups less aggressively than flatsawn spruce of the same width. It still moves, and a wide top should float rather than be fixed rigidly.

Finishing, and the one trap#

Pine takes wax exceptionally well, and wax over bare or lightly oiled pine is the traditional treatment that produces the look most people actually want from this wood. It also takes oils and modern hardwax finishes without difficulty.

Pigment stains blotch, for the same reason they blotch on spruce: the density difference between earlywood and latewood makes absorption uneven. A conditioner or a dye rather than a pigment stain solves it.

The trap is paint. Resin in and around knots stays mobile for years and will migrate straight through most primers, appearing as brown rings on a white surface months after the job looked finished. Seal every knot with shellac before priming. This is old advice and it is still the correct advice, because shellac remains the best barrier available for resin bleed.

Where Scots Pine is the right answer#

Farmhouse tables, painted and waxed furniture, panelling, carcass work, shelving, and traditional flooring where dents are understood as part of the character rather than a failure. It is the right answer whenever the budget is real, the shop is modest, or the piece is meant to look better in twenty years than it does on day one.

It is the wrong answer for a surface that must stay unmarked, for exterior use without treatment, and for anything where a stained colour needs to stay exactly as applied.

Not CITES listed and assessed as Least Concern. Scots Pine has some of the most mature certified supply chains of any timber in Europe, with well established FSC and PEFC coverage through Scandinavia, the Baltics and Poland. Of everything in the KORENA catalogue, this is among the most straightforward species to document to EUDR standard, which is worth weighing if the paperwork burden on a project matters as much as the material.

How do I stop resin bleeding through paint around knots?

Seal the knots with shellac before priming. Resin in and around knots stays mobile and will migrate through most primers and paints, showing as brown rings months later. Shellac is the traditional barrier for exactly this reason and it still works better than modern alternatives.

Is Scots Pine the same as redwood or deal?

Yes. Redwood is the British trade name for Pinus sylvestris, and deal is an older term for pine boards of a particular size that came to be used loosely for the species. All three names refer to the same wood, which causes regular confusion when buyers compare quotes.

Retrait volumique	13.6 %

Durabilité naturelle (EN 350)	Class 4 — Slightly durable

Références

The Wood Database — Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris)(consultée le 2026-08-12)
USDA FPL Wood Handbook FPL-GTR-190 (2010)(consultée le 2026-08-12)
Meier, E. — WOOD! Identifying and Using Hundreds of Woods Worldwide (2015)(consultée le 2026-08-12)

Atouts

Attention

Touchez une étiquette pour afficher les détails.

En bref

DuretéTendre

Dureté Janka : 2 420 N

51 % plus tendre que le chêne européen

PoidsMoyen

550 kg/m³

StabilitéNerveux

13,6 % de retrait volumique

TravailFacile

4,0 / 5 de moyenne à l’atelier

Usage extérieurIntérieur uniquement

EN 350 classe 4

Prix actuel du bois de Scots Pine en Europe, par mètre cube hors TVA. Touchez un prix pour en voir le détail.

Grumes de premier choix aux enchères par pays

Grumes courantes par pays

Pourquoi un plateau coûte-t-il plus cher ?

Ces prix concernent le bois brut. Un plateau est la meilleure tranche d’une grume, séchée pendant au moins un an, puis contrôlée et mesurée individuellement. Seule une petite partie de chaque grume devient un plateau.

Source : KORENA Timber Index · Dernières données : 21 sept. 2026

Voir tous les prix régionaux

Finlande · 53 € / m³

Régions : Southern Finland (Etelä-Suomi)

Dernières données : 21 sept. 2026